Just a three hour flight away from London is a city completely removed from the lifestyle lived here in Britain. Laden donkeys tread through ancient red, labyrinthine lanes, amidst the bustle of the merchants purveying their scintillating lanterns or pied scarves, as the scent of the market’s spices pervades the city: like a fantasy or time-capsule, a trip to Marrakesh is the most sensual and exotic escape from mundanity that a short-haul flight can provide.
For tourists, Morocco is a haven of calm, culture and security in the otherwise conflicted region of North Africa, and Marrakesh is the jewel in its crown. In November, when I visited, the temperature stayed an agreeable 27◦ throughout – a temperature which cannot be found in Europe in this season of year – indeed, Morden at the time was experiencing its first snowfall of the winter.
In the central square I was, upon arrival, greeted by cobras subdued by the heat, or possessed by the beguiling pipes of the snake-charmers resonant throughout, and the tethered monkeys who will prod unsuspecting tourists, their masters vying for lucrative photo opportunities. From this chaotic epicentre, the alleys of the souk stretch far out to the walls of the ‘medina’ (old city). Local people approach gullible tourists, offering to guide them through the maze: such offers must be resisted, for if accepted, one will find oneself diverging to shops or stalls far away, with which the guide has a commission arrangement.
Although certain foods – salads, in particular – should be avoided, as Morocco’s water supply is impure, Marrakesh nonetheless offers a culinary adventure, particularly for vegetarians. Couscous dishes and tajines abound, which can be supplemented by the cooling mint tea served in almost all restaurants. The décor of eateries is perhaps just as notable as the food itself – drapes, lanterns, plush cushions and golden utensils render each meal atmospheric and memorable.
The ‘riads’ are the B&Bs of Marrakesh, although this comparison may belittle the Moroccan splendour they hold. Riads, located in the heart of the medina, offer an authenticity and character not to be found in the 5* hotels in the newer half of the city. Originally family homes, they are each unique, with a central courtyard typically containing an elaborately decorated water feature. Our riad, ‘Lapis Lazuli’, served as a welcome retreat after a day of ambling about such a hectic city. The roof terrace was a particular treat, for from it we could enjoy stargazing too clear to ever experience back in London.
For an even clearer view of the night sky, however, one can travel to Erg Chebbi: Morocco’s prime Saharan erg. Various travel agencies offer two to three day excursions to this spot, where endless sand dunes and camel rides await. If, like us, time is too limited to explore outside the city, cheap camel rides can also be found outside the Medina Gardens… camel riding is an experience like no other, and the charming, amiable beasts are best met in their natural environment of North Africa.
We were, perhaps irrationally, mindful of the recent ISIL terror attacks while en route to North Africa, but soon realised that Western Europe (including the UK) is regarded by the Foreign Office as a more severe risk for terrorism than Morocco. Security in the city was high, and aside from occasional pickpocketing, crime is low. We felt entirely safe during our visit to this magical, rose-red city, and would not hesitate to visit again – for longer next time!
